In 2023 I travelled to the distant island of Santa Catalina within the Solomon Islands to seize the Wogasia Spear Preventing Pageant, probably the most distinctive and least-documented cultural rituals on this planet. On this new journey information I share my expertise attending Wogasia, diving into the cultural which means behind the occasion, what it’s like on Santa Catalina and every part it is advisable know to go to this competition your self.
I plant my ft on the sands of Aorigi on the break of daybreak, with the resonating battle cries from spear-wielding warriors piercing by the rustling coconut timber.
To my left George Waimanu, the fiercest fighter within the Solomon Islands, brandishes his weapon and protect in direction of the sky, screaming out in daring furore.
In the direction of the east a wall of males, unfold evenly from the sands into the ocean, inch slowly in direction of Waimanu and the handfuls of warriors adorned in clay that make up his Atawa tribe, anxiously ready for the chilling name of a conch shell.
The air is galvanized with trepidation. The massive crowd of island residents are cheering their fellow tribesmen on, buzzing with anticipation for the primary assault.
My eyes dart quickly from left to proper. I can’t shake the feeling that I’ve stumbled upon one thing extraordinary.
In a contemporary world that’s caught within the whirlwind of innovation, what’s unfolding earlier than me is a window right into a time-honoured tradition that refuses to fade.
A shell is blown, Waimanu cheers and hurls his spear at his brother Robert, an elder within the opposing Amwea tribe, which is expertly deflected by his Hata protect.
The floodgates have opened, the battle has begun, and the sky turns hazy in a flurry of timber spears.
The ultimate battle of Wogasia has begun, and I’m within the epicentre of its chaotic storm.
The Wogasia Spear Preventing Pageant – Solomon Islands’ Most Outstanding Cultural Occasion
From the early days of intrepid explorers to awe-inspired youths thumbing by the yellow covers of Nationwide Geographic magazines, people have all the time been in pursuit of the grand and the epic.
The decision of the uncharted, the fun of the sudden, the enjoyment of discovery — these are the lures that pull at our hearts and propel our ft onto untrodden paths.
Sure, even I, a humble traveller who has sought out a diverse lifetime of wandering journey, have been consumed by this enduring quest.
But on this age of high-speed connections and geo-mapped corners, the seek for such pristine experiences turns into akin to a cosmic treasure hunt.
The epic now evades our keen grasp, hiding beneath the cloak of the acquainted and the well-known.
Scrolling by the limitless feeds of social media we begin to realise that what had been as soon as essentially the most distant elements of this planet at the moment are properly documented. Even thought-about ‘stylish’ in some circumstances.
This doesn’t sluggish us down although. The problem heightens, the journey stretches, the search intensifies.
Consequently, our thirst for the extraordinary takes us to the farthest flung corners of the world, to the perimeters of the earth, the place the footprints of modernity have but to tread.
It’s right here, within the final vestiges of unspoiled marvel, that the spirit of epic journey experiences whispers to us, encouraging us to delve deeper into the embrace of the world’s unknown.
Having spent half of my life on a journey to step off the overwhelmed path, I by no means thought to look near house for an expertise that will fulfill my craving for journey.
That each one modified one March morning when a telephone name got here by asking if I used to be obtainable to doc Aorigi’s Wogasia Spear Preventing Pageant, a captivating and nearly exceptional cultural occasion in a distant nook of the Solomon Islands.
Regardless of being only a 3-hour flight from Brisbane, Australia, the Solomons are one of many least visited nations on this planet, with lower than 30,000 vacationers stepping foot on the Pacific nation yearly.
The gorgeous archipelago is already offbeat, and the handful of travellers that do come right here are sometimes in quest of uncrowded surf breaks, untouched coral reefs or a quiet place to laze in a hammock with a beloved one.
An historical battle on an island with no scheduled transport, electrical energy or working water isn’t the everyday drawcard for many guests to the Solomons, and that was the explanation I turned so intrigued by the decision.
“Wogasia is a collection of rituals to want for yam harvest for the following season,” Mike, a consultant of Tourism Solomon Islands, instructed me on the telephone.
“They struggle with spears as a result of the neighborhood is so small they don’t maintain any grievances all year long, in any other case their society would possibly disintegrate.
“As an alternative they problem anybody that they’ve had a difficulty with in the course of the yr to a spear struggle on this at some point solely.
“Belief me, you’ll like it.”
After the telephone name I dove into the vastness of the world large net, and solely got here throughout a small variety of tales and pictures from the fabled Wogasia Pageant.
All of them obscure, a quick recollection of a journey author’s recollections, however with sufficient attract to persuade me that I couldn’t say no to this chance.
A couple of weeks later I boarded the worldwide flight to Honiara, the capital of the Solomons, and launched into probably the most outstanding journey experiences of my life.
The Journey to Santa Catalina
I spent just a few days acclimatising in Honiara, visiting native markets, trekking to hidden waterfalls and buying provides for my mission to Wogasia.
Garedd Porowai, a senior member of Tourism Solomon Islands, native legend and a number of veteran of Wogasia, was my private information and ensured that the logistics of my journey had been properly taken care of.
As I later came upon, Wogasia, and the island of Santa Catalina (Aorigi’s frequent title) the place it’s held, isn’t the kind of vacation spot a foreigner can simply present as much as with out native assist.
The island has no airport or ferry terminal, there are not any scheduled flights to its nearest neighbour Santa Ana, and permits should be acquired earlier than being granted entry to this wild a part of Solomon Islands’ Makira Province.
With Garedd and his group dealing with all of the organisation, we packed our baggage and headed to the home airport the day earlier than the competition would begin.
Our Wogasia group was made up of a really choose variety of individuals, simply 7 in complete, together with 4 locals from the tourism board, airline and media – Garedd, Jenny, Crisinrita and Shaun – Johnny and Sam, 2 younger Australians who had been volunteering on the nation’s Institute of Sport, and myself.
A chartered Twin Otter plan operated by Solomon Airways touched taxied down the runway in direction of the terminal and was refuelled and checked.
We claimed unallocated seats with hand-written boarding passes and buckled up for a mesmerising 2-hour flight to Santa Ana, the closest port to Santa Catalina.
Hovering over the principle island of Guadalcanal we quickly handed over glistening coral atolls, turquoise lagoons and palm-speckled seashores earlier than circling round Santa Ana and touching down on its grass runway.
Stepping out of the prop aircraft a few dozen locals welcomed us with smiles and waves.
We collected our baggage an watched the aircraft take off, leaving us behind with a tentative date of when will probably be again.
Garedd had instructed us to anticipate a 30-minute stroll from the highest of the island right down to the fishing village, however a rusted Toyota Hilux was ready for us to move us down the hill.
Piling into the tray we bounced by lush jungle and fruit plantations to the village, the place over 100 individuals had been gathered to greet us guests.
We relaxed on the seaside, laughing together with the curious youngsters whereas Garedd negotiated a few small boats to take us throughout the ocean to Santa Catalina.
Ultimately with costs settled we jumped into the boats and motored off, waving goodbye to the island and eyes firmly fastened on our subsequent vacation spot.
Our Arrival
Approaching the swaying coconut timber of Santa Catalina induced a sense of awe and thriller.
Unfold out throughout the seaside and filtering again by the jungle had been just a few hundred males, ladies and youngsters, chatting excitedly because the guests arrived, each waving with beaming smiles.
Father Joseph, one of many village elders donned in a broad-leaf hat and peculiar high-vis t-shirt, greeted us with a standard welcome, then led us to a household’s home for lunch.
We ate a big unfold of fried fish, yams and rice, which might be our staple weight-reduction plan all through our keep, downed by recent coconuts plucked simply an hour earlier than.
Garedd greeted everyone that handed like an outdated buddy. Having grown up on a close-by island, and dealing closely in tourism and neighborhood growth, he had grow to be near quite a lot of the locals right here and was handled like an uncle.
After our group separated, I used to be taken to my host Father Jack’s place on the different finish of the village and given a room to myself.
The bed room was fundamental however had all I want – a mattress with tender mattress and clear sheets, a agency pillow and a small desk for putting my vital gadgets.
There was no electrical energy, lights within the room, nor a mosquito web, which I used to be instructed was not required as no mosquitos are discovered on Santa Catalina.
Close by was a small outhouse with Western-style bathroom, and an open-air room surrounded by plastic with a bucket for a bathe.
It was easy, humble and in some way excellent in each manner.
An Introduction to the Village
After getting settled I grabbed my digicam and went for a stroll by the settlements and homes of Santa Catalina.
I ran into Garedd and requested what the plan was for the rest of the day. He knowledgeable me that it was a day of relaxation, and that most individuals take it straightforward to arrange for the festivities that start the next afternoon.
“A campfire on the seaside could be cool,” I mused to Garedd. “Do the individuals right here ever try this?”
“Hmm, not likely,” Garedd mentioned thoughtfully. “However yea, that will be cool!”
I continued my wanderings on the northern aspect of the island, the place a few small villages unfold out from east to west. Father Jack’s was within the centre, roughly, and again from the ocean by 150 metres.
As I walked from settlement to settlement locals got here out with broad grins and heat hellos, welcoming me to their island and exhibiting me handicrafts or how they make meals.
It was then that I met George Waimanu for the primary time.
Garedd had been chatting with him beneath a lean-to shelter once I walked by.
“Jarryd, that is George, the perfect spear fighter on Santa Catalina! Come meet him.”
I jogged over to shake palms with George, a brief man who stood slightly below my eyes.
He was lean and unassuming, however I might instantly sense his shrouded energy beneath his leather-like pores and skin.
His eyes had been light, and his form smile beamed from his weathered face like a protracted misplaced buddy.
George spoke little English, however language proved to be no barrier.
He welcomed me with out situation, shaking my hand with each of his and showing to be thrilled {that a} foreigner would come all this solution to witness his beloved Wogasia.
We chatted backwards and forwards, Garedd filling within the gaps for us, whereas I instructed him the place I used to be from and what I did. George listened intently, with a glance of focus on his face which immediately broke into wild pleasure when it was translated for him.
I thanked George for his time, realizing it wouldn’t be the final I see of him on this small island.
I continued my tracks by the labyrinth of the village, and the children rapidly turned the principle attraction. Or extra possible, I turned their essential attraction.
In every single place I went the younger kids adopted me like a shadow, laughing, guffawing and posing for images.
A couple of spoke the odd phrase of English, however for essentially the most half they chatted to me in their very own language and repeated what I mentioned each time I responded.
They led me to the seaside and began enjoying video games, working backwards and forwards with a damaged piece of skinny plywood getting used as a skimboard.
It was easy pleasures, the sort which were forgotten again house by a youthful generations who grasp iPads earlier than they study to kick a soccer, and it was magnificent to see.
Time glided by rapidly, and I observed Garedd and some of the locals gathering palm fronds and damaged branches, dragging them right into a pile on the seaside.
“I requested a few campfire tonight and everybody thought it was nice concept!” Garedd referred to as out.
I seemed on the towering bonfire, dense with dried palms and reaching properly above head peak.
“That’s going to be fairly a hearth!” I responded, then went off to seek out just a few palm fronds so as to add to the gathering.
Because the solar set I met the remainder of our small group again within the central village for dinner and coconuts.
After an early night meal of fish and yam, we made our manner again to the seaside to seek out among the locals gathered across the leaves.
One of many males got here ahead with a lit bundle of bark and sparked up the fireplace.
In moments the blaze licked its manner by the pile and burst to the sky in big dancing flames.
George Waimanu loudly emerged from the darkness, carrying a hat and skirt fabricated from banana leaves, and wielding a protect and spear.
He ran in circles across the fireplace, waving his spear and crying out in chants and calls in the course of the actions.
A few of kids laughed at George’s vibrant show as he appeared to taunt the flames in twisting manoeuvres.
The hearth flared up and burnt out rapidly, and George was dripping with sweat.
As soon as he regained his breath he ran as much as me and pointed to my digicam. I confirmed him among the images I captured of his manic dance, and he cheered with delight.
A couple of of the boys dragged the remaining unburnt fronds from the pile and kicked sand over the embers, extinguishing the quick and livid fireplace.
The spectators fizzled out very like the flames, and I adopted swimsuit, strolling again to my hut and passing out to the blissful sound of silence.
READ MORE: Take a look at my information to the perfect journey images suggestions.
The Morning Market
I woke at dawn, acquired dressed and head straight to the seaside to sit down and benefit from the morning blast of oranges and reds that mark the beginning of a brand new day.
To rejoice a handful of tourists being on their island, the artisans of Santa Catalina placed on a morning market to showcase and promote their handmade carvings.
A spread of lovely handicrafts had been obtainable to buy, from fundamental, small fishing hooks proper as much as intricate, shell-inlaid shields and elaborate head items.
The Santa Catalina artists lined the seaside with the souvenirs on show, and I wandered backwards and forwards chatting with the locals and testing their works.
There was no pushiness or hustling from anybody, and every vendor appeared simply as pleased to point out off their handicrafts with out anticipating a sale as they did once I finally buy greater than my backpack might deal with.
I purchased 11 items of artwork in a wide range of shapes and sizes for lower than AUD$200. It was so inexpensive I dared not barter, and I fortunately paid regardless of the asking value was for every merchandise.
The market solely lasted an hour or so, then everyone packed up and returned to the village to prepare for the beginning of Wogasia.
Accumulating the Conch Shells
The remainder of the morning handed by lazily, damaged up with a tasty lunch of curried hen, fish and rice, and I continued my exploration of the village.
Households beckoned me to their houses to point out me the meals they had been making ready for the following evening’s feast, and even afforded me just a few small samples.
George tracked me down and took me to his home, bringing me inside and proudly exhibiting off a few of his personal handicrafts.
In addition to being an skilled spear fighter, Waimanu can also be a talented artisan with timber and stone.
He demonstrated how he carves shapes and features into rock, and even provided me an elaborate wood masks as a present.
I left George’s home and returned to the shelter that had grow to be our unofficial resting space to chill out for one more hour.
Garedd, the 2 Australians and I chatted idly over cups of tea when a hive of exercise began to occur round 2pm.
The younger males of Santa Catalina began to scurry off into the villages and jungle, returning with giant conch shells that had been collected over years of Wogasia festivities.
As soon as sufficient had been gathered two warriors and a few dozen younger youngsters grabbed a shell every and wandered into the lapping sea, totally clothed, and began blowing the shells.
The sound was haunting and hypnotic, and inside minutes the complete village got here to the sands and watched because the boys and males blew and swayed and shouldered by the waves.
The conch shells had been blown constantly for half-hour, in excellent unison and rhythm, when the eldest man within the group instantly referred to as out they usually all returned to the seaside.
They fastidiously cleaned their shells, scrubbing out any sand and filth to make sure they had been spotless for the following spherical of rituals.
Conch shells in hand, the boys and males wandered into the jungle and positioned the shells in a pile subsequent to a big rock, then disappeared to get modified.
Accumulating the Beater Sticks
As the boys filtered by the village the ladies then went foraging by the forest in quest of ‘beater sticks’ – lengthy, skinny branches that will be used later within the night.
Every lady collected no less than one stick, then positioned them in a pile amongst dense shrubs on the western finish of the village.
The afternoon rituals had been over, and everyone returned to their houses to relaxation earlier than dusk.
Our hosts cooked an early dinner, and Garedd instructed me that we had just a few hours spare earlier than we’d hear the sound of conch shells blown once more.
“After they blow the shells there’s no stopping till after Wogasia,” Garedd warned me.
I decided to refuel my vitality financial institution whereas I had the prospect. Alarm set for midnight, I then headed again to my room simply after sundown to get some sleep.
Hearth and Fury By means of the Village
I woke at midnight and headed to our eating hut to seek out Garedd and Johnny chatting quietly and searching extraordinarily sleep-deprived.
They’d determined to tug an all-nighter, and the luggage beneath their eyes warned that their choice might not have been the neatest one.
We made a recent batch of immediate espresso to wake us up and sat round for just a few hours extra, nonetheless with no motion within the village.
“They should wait till a star strikes into a specific spot within the sky earlier than the following half begins,” Garedd knowledgeable us.
I glanced out from shelter and stared by the palm timber, seeing nothing however dense cloud. With no stars seen, it will be anybody’s guess as to when the village elders felt it was the appropriate time to begin.
Simply after 2am we heard the primary conch shell echo by the timber.
We ran to the far aspect of the village and located the boys beginning to collect in a big crowd.
The sound of 1 conch shell changed into two, after which multiplied exponentially till the unison of horns turned deafening.
Your complete island was now awake, and lots of the locals picked up beater sticks from the pile whereas the younger ones and youngsters ran off into the darkish.
“Let’s go to the principle sq.,” Garedd advised, and we rapidly shuffled off earlier than the chaos started.
We retreated into the darkness in direction of the centre of the village, assembly on the edge of a giant, open sq., and waited for the spectacle to start.
Garedd and I chatted quietly with just a few older girls after we heard the sudden cries of an excited stampede reverberating by the timber shacks.
The noise was livid and distant, and rose sharply in quantity because the unseen crowd neared our empty sq..
At one level the sound was throughout us, pulsating by our bones, when shadows and shrieks emerged from the limitless evening.
Because the silhouettes of warriors appeared flaming embers flew by the air, hurled by invisible youngsters hiding from the onslaught.
Scores of women and men burst into the scene, screaming and whacking the flaming missiles on the bottom with intense energy.
The explosions of fireside illuminated their faces amongst the blackness, and the complete village gave the impression to be beneath assault by the beaters.
Mischievous kids hurled their very own mischievous projectiles – buckets of fish guts that rapidly coated all who entered the battlefield.
This second would have been deathly terrifying, if it weren’t for the refined tones of pleasure underlying their screams and the cheeky smiles that beamed because the embers lit up the sq..
After solely a minute or two, the group disappeared, charging by the following settlement leaving damaged sticks and small, glowing coals of their wake.
I remained immobile for just a few moments extra, making an attempt to course of what I had simply witnessed.
Within the distance the sounds of screaming subsided, and it appeared as if the cost had come to an finish.
Garedd smiled. He had seen this many instances earlier than, and but clearly discovered it as highly effective and intimidating as I had.
“They use their sticks to beat the evil spirits out of the earth,” he instructed me, and it began to make sense.
“Let’s go to the seaside,” he mentioned, and we wandered off previous the villages in direction of the japanese finish of the island.
Songs til Dawn
We headed to the ocean to fulfill the group, and the conch shells echoed out once more.
Everyone ran to the sting of the ocean and threw their beater sticks into the waves, symbolically sending the evil spirits away from their land and clearing the soil for a productive harvest.
The beater sticks floated on the floor, and the whackers got here collectively in unison.
Most had been lined in fish blood and organs, and some had been unintentionally hit with the sticks amongst the assault, however no one gave the impression to be agitated by the accidents.
It was about 3am now, and the group wandered east into the darkness.
As soon as we made it to the top of the seaside everyone took a spot seated within the sand, and the youngsters began singing a track in regards to the rising solar and pudding.
Betelnut was handed round, appearing as a robust stimulant to maintain the adults awake.
Chewing and spitting the purple juice into the bottom, the track continued on repeat for a lot of hours.
I snuck away to discover a patch of sand to put on, staring up on the stars and resting for half-hour whereas drifting out and in of consciousness to the chanting echoing within the evening.
When the faint glow of daylight began to materialise on the horizon the singing stopped, and the ladies gathered in a big group earlier than climbing into the jungle.
I discovered Garedd chatting with just a few of the village elders. “They’re going to go decide some flowers from a particular tree,” he instructed me. “After they come again the boys can begin their first struggle.”
The sky slowly modified from black to blue to purple, and because the new day neared the islanders moved to a large patch of seaside in anticipation of the ladies’s return.
The First Spear Combat
We stood round beneath the quilt of palms whereas males walked off to arrange for the upcoming struggle.
The solar broke by the low clouds on the horizon and the ladies returned quietly with the flowers, signalling that Wogasia might now proceed.
The soldiers’ garments had been swapped for conventional headpieces and leaf skirts, and lots of requested me to take their images earlier than they separated into two warring tribes.
On the seaside the viewers grew in dimension and we stood in heightened anticipation for what would come subsequent.
All of the sudden George Waimanu charged onto the seaside, thrusting his spear and protect into the air and taunting the invisible enemy to the east.
The gang cheered, and George was joined by two extra warriors, dancing, screaming and spinning.
At this problem we seemed in direction of the solar and noticed the Amwea tribe emerge from the jungle, spreading out from the sting of palm timber and much into the ocean.
They approached slowly and determinedly, calling again their very own cries of warfare.
As they neared George and his fighters had been joined by dozens extra, and one of many elders wandered onto the battlefield, drawing a line within the sand together with his foot.
The 2 tribes had been now simply 20 metres aside, face to face from sand to sea, and itching to start.
A conch shell blew from the group and George hurled the primary spear instantly at his brother Robert, who was standing amongst the opposite tribe.
There was no holding again now. Spears flew throughout the seaside with immense velocity, principally being deflected by shields or hitting the sand, however with some placing their targets with audible thumps.
Various additionally veered off track, practically taking out members of the group who had been cheering passionately.
The craziness of the struggle in entrance of me continued for round 10 minutes, spears interchangeably flying backwards and forwards with the vitality by no means wavering.
Lastly a chief bumped into the center of the battle, declaring that the struggle was over.
George and Robert met within the center, screaming and taunting their spears at one another, earlier than finally retreating.
The primary spear struggle of Wogasia was completed, and the animosity pale as rapidly because it had appeared.
The 2 tribes got here collectively and laughed, checking to verify everybody was okay and slapping one another on the backs or shaking palms.
Warriors returned to being brothers, and the environment morphed into jovial conversations.
The strongest fighters from every tribe posed for a photograph after which all of us headed again to the villages, passing beneath an elevated pole held excessive by two warriors which symbolised the separation of the battle and brotherhood.
A Morning of Relaxation and Preparation
Returning to the village everyone made their manner again to their houses to get better from the lengthy evening and clear themselves of sweat and fish oil.
I had a light-weight breakfast and some mugs of immediate espresso, stress-free by my hut for just a few hours and watching the locals come and go.
Simply earlier than lunch I went for a stroll and was referred to as over to the houses of many households, who wished to point out me the assorted meals they had been making ready for the ultimate feast that evening.
Coconut pudding and fermented fish could be on tonight’s menu, and I used to be provided just a few tasters as a deal with.
The morning handed by slowly, which suited me wonderful in my sleep-deprived state, and I bounced between the shade of the eating hut and the seaside, the place energetic youngsters performed video games with no care on this planet.
Our hosts made us a scrumptious lunch of fish, rice and recent fruit, and we kicked again ready for the ultimate occasion to start.
The Final Combat of Wogasia
There was motion amongst the village and folks began filtering in direction of the principle settlement.
We joined the group and heard that the boys and males of Santa Catalina had ventured into the hills to camouflage themselves in clay earlier than the struggle.
Garedd led us to the sting of the village and we sought shelter behind a small home to flee the unrelenting warmth of the day.
We waited virtually half-hour when with out warning over 100 boys coated head to toe in mud flooded down from the hills, spears in hand, shrieking hysterically.
The shock of their look hit us rapidly and unexpectedly, and Garedd led me to the entrance of the road to face the younger warriors.
Their military grew bigger and extra fierce, and behind the children the grownup males appeared in help with the look of battle etched firmly on their faces.
The gang surged in direction of the seaside in 50m increments, and I used to be caught up within the stampede.
Backing away I couldn’t escape the onslaught, and I needed to dart into the bushes to keep away from the cost.
When the boys paused to arrange for his or her last push to the ocean I ran to the seaside to seek out over 50 ladies being wearing head-to-toe banana leaf costumes, referred to as mwako mwakos.
I finished to admire the intricate work being utilized to the costumes, however was distracted by the sound of conch shells and screams coming from additional down the seaside.
Trying throughout there was a scrum of individuals gathering past the palm timber, and I bolted to catch as much as them.
Once I arrived the group was thick and I stood on my toes to attempt to get a glimpse of the battle.
Among the locals close to me observed I used to be making an attempt to see the motion, they usually ushered me to comply with them, parting the group and taking me to the entrance of the mosh pit.
Breaking by into open house, I regained my stability simply in time to see the primary spear thrown.
The depth of the ultimate battle was on a completely totally different degree to the struggle I had witnessed within the morning.
The spectators had been extra energised and the soldiers weren’t holding again.
Spears criss-crossed by the air as quick as javelins, placing among the males within the torso and legs.
Cries of ache echoed above the livid screams, earlier than the wounded fighters would shake away the harm, decide up one other spear and hurl it again quicker than ever.
The ferocious battle lasted only some minutes earlier than two chiefs bumped into the strike zone and yelled for the struggle to finish.
Like a swap, the spear-throwing ceased and George, Robert and Max ran ahead as soon as extra to taunt one another.
They had been dripping with sweat, and the exhaustion of their eyes was evident, however they nonetheless seemed as fearless as ever.
Lastly they lowered their spears and shields and retreated.
Grievances had been cleared, brotherhood returned, and the warfare was over…till subsequent yr.
Returning to the Sea
All the boys of Santa Catalina, those that fought and those that watched, got here collectively in jovial friendship and chatted fondly within the shade of hovering palms.
The conch shells continued, males swayed and danced, and some elders sung out phrases of encouragement and brotherhood.
On the opposite aspect the ladies dressed of their mwako mwakos fashioned a single line and wrapped themselves across the edges of the village sq..
Their costumes had been each fascinating and intimidating, with solely the palms and ft of the ladies uncovered.
I discovered Garedd and requested why they had been dressed like that.
“Banana leaves are crucial on Santa Catalina,” he shared, whereas keeping track of the group.
“Meals is wrapped in banana leaves for cooking they usually use them for plates as properly. All the ladies are additionally holding a stick and a stone, which they use day-after-day when cooking too. Sporting all of them is like asking for a blessing for good meals this yr.”
I wandered up and down the road of ladies, snapping just a few images and admiring the small print within the weaving of the costumes.
Then the lady on the entrance of the road screamed out, turned and ran by the village, with every costumed woman bolting behind at relentless pace.
Like a protracted inexperienced snake on assault, the ladies charged down the filth path between the ocean and the village. The gang adopted, and I attempted my finest to maintain up with them.
Minutes later they reached one other seaside and bumped into the ocean, stripping off their costumes within the sea revealing their regular garments beneath.
The banana leaves unfold out far and large, lapping again to shore with the crescent waves.
The soldiers quickly joined us on the seaside, they usually took turns working down the sand to throw their spears into the ocean.
Younger boys sped forward, diving into the ocean and splashing one another with glee.
With a lot fury, grievances and spirits held in these spears, this was the ultimate act to ship all unhealthy omens off the island.
It was a phenomenal and highly effective scene, with the ladies laughing and splashing one another amongst the banana leaves and the boys hurling hostility as distant as their weathered and weakened arms would enable.
quarter-hour later the ultimate spear landed within the sea, the final individual exited the water, and everyone dispersed again to their houses.
The rituals had been over. Every thing that could possibly be completed to want for a bountiful harvest was completed, and with the battle between males accomplished the upcoming yr could be as uplifting and communal because the spirits would enable amongst the Aorigi brothers.
All that was left to do was feast.
The Last Feast
Because the solar began to set the complete island separated, with each man and boy making their solution to one settlement and each lady and lady heading to a different.
The meals that was ready over the previous few days was now served communal type, sitting on the naked earth and sharing the 6-month pudding, dried fish and yams.
Laughter bounced off the timber houses edging the sq.. I seemed round and noticed solely beaming, drained smiles on the faces of the boys.
The following morning I’d bounce on a fishing boat and depart Santa Catalina, starting a protracted journey again to my own residence.
I’d be returning with the heat and hospitality of the Aorigi villagers lodged in my coronary heart, and an excellent perception into one of many world’s most attention-grabbing cultural occasions.
Maybe I too would study to not let grievances occupy my interior ideas all year long.
My want to find the extravagant and epic had been fulfilled. Beneath the swaying palm timber on a distant nook of the Solomons I’d quenched my thirst for an journey in a manner that few had ever seen.
George Waimanu got here as much as me together with his illuminating smile and provided me a bit of dried fish.
He spoke to me in his native tongue and I turned to Garedd to ask what he mentioned.
“He desires you to come back again subsequent yr. You’re in his ‘Atawa’ tribe now, and he desires you to be a part of the following Wogasia.”
I returned his vibrant smile. “In fact George, I’ll come again once more. So long as you promise to not struggle me!”
George burst into deep, sincere laughter, shook my hand between his personal and joined his brothers again on the feast.
I suppose I higher begin brushing up on my spear preventing abilities.
Wogasia Journey Information – What, The place, When, Why and How
Attending the Wogasia Spear Preventing Pageant within the Solomon Islands is without doubt one of the world’s biggest cultural experiences, and after 15 years chasing my very own adventures stays one in every of my prime journey moments.
Visiting Santa Catalina and collaborating in Wogasia although is a real off-the-beaten-path escapade, and requires planning and native help to be granted entry.
In case you have learn my expertise of Wogasia and would like to attend the competition your self, I’ve put collectively this complete information to every part it is advisable know.
What’s Wogasia?
Wogasia is a vibrant relic of the outdated Aorigi tradition, which continues to be a residing custom on the island to at the present time.
It’s a sacred celebration of rebirth and fertility, routinely noticed annually in the course of the last week of Might or the preliminary days of June, with its actual timing dictated by the brand new moon lunar cycle.
This competition signifies the conclusion of the yam harvest, presenting a wealthy tapestry of the Aorigi individuals’s enduring reference to nature and their previous.
Wogasia incorporates various rituals held all through the 36ish hours that it happens, and whereas essentially the most dramatic one is the spear struggle, there are quite a lot of different vital moments to expertise.
What’s the Objective of the Spear Combat?
Spears have been utilized by warriors of the Pacfic for hundreds of years, and together with golf equipment have lengthy been the weapon of alternative for warring tribes.
At present on Aorigi locals hold spears for ceremonial functions and for use on the annual Wogasia competition.
With simply 2000 individuals residing on Santa Catalina the neighborhood is tight-knit and depending on a civilised society.
If anger, fights or arguments had been to take maintain, the neighborhood runs the chance of being torn aside in such a distant place.
In fact disagreements do occur, however to make sure society operates easily there may be an unwritten rule on the island that no one can maintain grudges or act on their grievances with fellow villagers.
As an alternative what the boys do is proceed their lives in concord, and use the day of Wogasia as a solution to cope with their points.
Wogasia offers a possibility for a person to problem one other man to a spear struggle to settle issues.
The spears are blunted to not trigger severe hurt, though the impression can lead to minor accidents.
Every man may solely be challenged as soon as annually, so there isn’t any a number of particular person battles taking place in the course of the struggle.
As soon as the spear struggle is concluded there are not any winners or losers. Reasonably the grievances are deemed to be handled and have to be forgotten about, permitting the neighborhood to maneuver ahead.
How you can Get to Santa Catalina
Santa Catalina is a distant island discovered within the Makira Province, removed from Honiara within the japanese a part of the Solomon Islands
The standard title is Aorigi, with “a” which means island and “rigi” which means very tiny.
The journey to Santa Catalina is an intrepid journey in itself, and requires each a way of journey and a little bit of logistical planning with help from the airline and tourism board.
There’s no airport on Santa Catalina, so as an alternative it is advisable fly to Santa Ana, the following closest island.
Solomon Airways, the nationwide provider, doesn’t provide commonly scheduled flights to Santa Ana resulting from lack of demand.
The one possibility is to organise a constitution flight with Solomon Airways on one in every of their Twin Otter propeller plane, or coordinate your journey right here with a constitution that’s already booked.
The simplest solution to organise this flight is to get in contact with the group at Tourism Solomon Islands, or with Jenny Lobo at Solomon Airways ([email protected]).
After getting secured your flight you’ll depart Honiara on the 1.5-hour low-altitude journey to Santa Ana, flying over gorgeous coral atolls and the mountainous, jungle landscapes of the archipelago.
Boasting a protracted, grass strip for a runway and an open-air shelter for a terminal, it’d be a little bit of a stretch to say Santa Ana has a lot of an airport, however that makes it much more adventurous whenever you finally contact down.
From the air strip you’ll must make your manner right down to the principle fishing village on Santa Ana.
For those who’re fortunate, or any person from Solomon Airways or the tourism board has reached out forward of time, one of many locals will likely be ready to your flight with an outdated, beat-up Toyota Hilux to move you and your baggage right down to the village.
If the experience hasn’t arrived although you’ll must stroll down the filth highway by lush forest for about half-hour.
On the village you’ll discover a welcoming assortment of fisherman and smiling kids excited to see you, and various boats docked on the seaside.
Negotiate a value with the fisherman for a visit to Santa Catalina, which is just 25 minutes away throughout the ocean, and head off.
Lodging on Santa Catalina
You gained’t discover a 5-star Hilton on the distant island of Santa Catalina, however what you can see in my view is so a lot better.
The choices for lodging on Santa Catalina are restricted to cosy rooms in a neighborhood household’s house, and as tourism has slowly began to ramp up right here (and after we say ramp up, that’s for the 20 or so foreigners a yr who go to), the guesthouses have improved in consolation and privateness.
For those who haven’t already organised your journey to Wogasia or Santa Catalina forward of time with the tourism board, you’ll have to talk with one of many native chiefs about which household you possibly can stick with.
Don’t fear, you gained’t be left stranded right here with no roof over your head. You’ll be properly taken care of from the second you step foot on Santa Catalina.
Assuming you’re travelling as a gaggle although, the chiefs would have already found out which household you may be residing with throughout your time right here.
You’ll be provided a non-public room inside a small timber shack with a single mattress, skinny mattress and clear sheets.
There are not any ensuites right here. Reasonably you’ll use the outhouse geared up with Western-style bathroom, flushed with a bucket resulting from no working water, in a communal space for the household.
A bucket bathe is offered and is enclosed with plastic to create some privateness.
The rooms don’t have locks however some doorways do have latches the place you possibly can put a padlock.
Not that theft is an issue right here, and the complete time I stayed on the island I simply closed my door with out worrying a few lock.
There’s no mosquitos on the island, so no want for a mosquito web both. However the rooms aren’t utterly sealed, so don’t be stunned if small, innocent bugs get inside.
In the end the lodging on Santa Catalina is fundamental, but comfy, and actually is all you want.
Meals
What are you able to anticipate to eat in Santa Catalina?
The island lives principally off the land and sea, with only some provisions resembling rice commonly introduced in from elsewhere.
Consequently the meals is fundamental but nuturious, served morning, midday and evening, with a wide range of staples resembling bananas, papaya, yams, potatoes, rice, recent fish and the occasional hen meal for those who’re fortunate.
There are not any scarcity of coconuts both, and I usually discovered piles of recent coconuts on a desk with a machete that had been free to take.
Meals are cooked by the ladies of the guesthouses and you’ll both be consuming along with your host household or in an assigned shelter for teams.
Vegetarians and vegans can have a tough time getting protein right here, so if you want to stay to a strict weight-reduction plan it’s best to deliver your individual dietary supplements as properly.
Personally I’m a vegetarian, however made exceptions to eat fish and hen on Santa Catalina out of respect for my hosts and the data that that is as farm to desk as you may get.
It’s additionally a good suggestion to deliver another groceries with you from Honiara resembling immediate espresso or tea and snacks.
3 meals a day are included along with your keep.
Life within the Village
There may be in some way each quite a bit and never a lot to do within the villages of Santa Catalina.
With no energy or telephone service days are spent enjoying video games with the youngsters, hanging out on the seaside, spending time along with your hosts or different households, cooking, studying how you can kite fish, snorkelling (if the climate is good) and easily kicking again with a guide.
When the competition is on although there may be little down time, and also you’ll be extraordinarily busy becoming a member of within the actions and watching the rituals.
Life is straightforward and relaxed right here, and a few of my favorite recollections had been fashioned by simply strolling round chatting with the villagers.
How A lot Does it Price to Attend Wogasia?
There is no such thing as a ‘set price’ to attend Wogasia, however there are a number of logistics, bookings and permits that should be taken care of earlier than you possibly can go to, which do add up in price.
Count on to pay about $6,000 SBD (USD$700 or AUD$1,100) complete to your constitution flights from Honiara, boat transport, lodging, meals and entry charges for the three days and nights.
When is Wogasia 2024?
Dates to be confirmed. We’ll replace this text when we have now the most recent info.
The place to E book Wogasia?
If you want to attend Wogasia it’s best to talk instantly with Garedd Porowai from Tourism Solomon Islands.
He can maintain every part it is advisable go to Santa Catalina and attend to Wogasia.
Numbers for 2024 will likely be strictly restricted to fifteen guests most. No exceptions.
Get in contact with Garedd through e mail: [email protected]
