Following the reopening of Japan to vacationers, we returned to Kyoto and spent a number of weeks within the metropolis. Suffice to say, so much has modified. We revisited each main temple and shrine, checked in on accommodations, wandered Gion, Arashiyama, Higashiyama, and different districts to see what issues are like as of 2023.
This replace shares Kyoto images, how issues which have modified in the previous couple of years, and commentary on what to anticipate in case you’re visiting in 2023. Primarily, there are two massive tales by way of Kyoto journey. The primary is the continuing harm and restoration from the pandemic associated closures and precipitous drop-off in tourism.
The second is the completion of main initiatives and additions, lots of which have been supposed to reach forward of the Tokyo Summer time Olympics, however have been delayed. Although Kyoto is the epicenter of conventional Japan, there are many new additions to town, and many extra is below transformation.
Let’s start with the post-reopening restoration and we must always begin by saying that stories of Kyoto’s demise are significantly exaggerated. This isn’t to reduce the extent of the ache inflicted upon people and enterprise homeowners within the tourism-reliant metropolis. Relatively, it’s in response to the widespread media stories of Kyoto going “bankrupt” and the way in which these have been tied to the pandemic closures.
By all accounts, Kyoto faces a tax income shortfall and its funds are in poor order. If it fails to show issues round, town faces authorities intervention within the subsequent decade. And it hasn’t helped that Kyoto is more and more reliant on vacationer spending to energy its native financial system. Nonetheless, the notion that town is on the precipice of financial devastation as a result of of the dearth of tourism is nonsense. Kyoto’s woes have existed for years; the border closure solely amplified them.
Even realizing there was far more to the story than the headlines recommended, we have been getting ready to return to a really totally different Kyoto than the one we final left in late 2019. Our greatest shock was how little had really modified.
Some tourist-centric eating places, retail, and accommodations are nonetheless closed, nevertheless it’s an exceedingly small and virtually unnoticeable quantity. Most have reopened, and enterprise is booming. In the principle vacationer districts of Gion, Arashiyama, and Higashiyama, new spots have sprouted up. Others are the identical as ever, promoting the identical shirts and hats which have been on provide for the final decade plus.
Greater than anything, we discovered ourselves shocked by how alive all the pieces felt. We feared returning to a Kyoto that was a shadow of its former self, a shell of town that we fell in love with so a few years in the past. Genuinely, it felt virtually like we had by no means left. There have been solely a few reminders of how totally different Kyoto was as in comparison with three years in the past. Let’s begin with these…
Face Masks & Well being Security Measures – When you’re planning a visit to Japan, you’ve probably heard that masking is widespread. This isn’t hyperbole; on the contrary, it’s an understatement. Use of face masks is almost common, each indoors and out. Plexiglass obstacles are likewise ubiquitous, and you may anticipate to come across them on the overwhelming majority of eating places.
The continuing well being security measures make Japan really feel like the US or Europe, circa Summer time 2020. The well being security guidelines & social expectations and the expertise of being a overseas customer throughout reopening are all lined in Japan’s Face Masks Guidelines v. Actuality in 2023. With out query, that is the largest distinction in visiting at this time, and Kyoto isn’t any totally different than different main cities in Japan.
Crowds – Along with Kyoto’s looming chapter, the opposite scorching subject of the final three years was town reevaluating its relationship with tourism in an try to discover a pleased medium of sustainable customer numbers. To make sure, this may be an admirable aim, as the expansion of the prior 5 years had overwhelmed infrastructure and created a sure floor stage rigidity between locals and guests.
Nonetheless, that didn’t occur. Tourism is again in Kyoto and it has returned in full power. At current, the numbers haven’t but returned to their late 2019 ranges, a lot much less the rise as soon as forecast for 2020. On high of that, there’s a unique dynamic to the crowds. There are far fewer overseas vacationers, and much more Japanese guests.
This shift is probably going owing to a mixture of pent-up demand and home journey subsidies which have fueled journeys inside Japan. There’s additionally a whole lack of Chinese language tour teams, which is a major change for sure websites like Fushimi Inari and the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove. They’re nonetheless extremely busy, however not busting-at-the-seams busy like a couple of years in the past.
Our expectation is that the make-up of crowds shifts progressively over the course of 2023, however not the amount. That is defined in When to Go to Kyoto, Japan: Finest & Worst Occasions (2023), which additionally gives perception about when to go to for decrease crowds, seasonal magnificence, particular occasions, and extra.
Cashless is King – Japan’s transition to a extra cashless society is a pattern that started pre-pandemic and accelerated even additional in the previous couple of years. It’s now to the purpose you could (virtually) get by with none yen available throughout a visit to Japan.
Our sensible recommendation on this entrance is getting a Suica or Pasmo IC playing cards, and loading that into Apple Pockets or no matter digital pockets you employ in your telephone or different good system. You may reload this together with your bank card, and accomplish that earlier than even leaving dwelling when the conversion charges are most favorable. IC playing cards can be utilized at prepare stations, eating places, retailers, and even sure merchandising machines.
In Kyoto, you’ll nonetheless discover loads of locations which might be money solely and also you’ll virtually definitely want yen because of this. Luckily, there are 7-Elevens all over, and you may simply use your financial institution card to withdraw cash as wanted.
Kiyomizudera Temple’s Predominant Corridor – After present process main renovations over the course of the final decade as a part of the Heisei Huge Renovation, work on Kiyomizudera Temple is completed. Throughout this large refurbishment undertaking, 9 of the temple’s buildings, together with the principle corridor, have been lined by scaffolding and restored.
For a number of years, the long-lasting most important corridor basically had an enormous warehouse constructed round it. The visible influence this had at Kiyomizudera Temple was vital, because the wood stage jutting out from the principle corridor with Kyoto within the background is the iconic scene at this temple, and the scaffolding round the principle corridor was seen from just about all over the place in Kiyomizudera.
We returned to Kiyomizudera for final yr’s fall colours season, which was far and away the busiest we had ever seen the temple. We made separate visits in the course of the daytime hours and for nighttime illumination, and the temple was packed past perception each occasions. To make sure, Kiyomizudera is all the time busy this time of yr, however we had by no means seen it like this.
Anticipate one thing comparable throughout sakura season, as worldwide vacationers descend upon Kiyomizudera (like all the time) and are joined by Japanese guests returning to see the temple in its accomplished glory. Even with the crowds, Kiyomizudera is to not be missed. The renovation outcomes are improbable.
Airbnb Modifications & Consolidation – New legal guidelines have been carried out that required quick time period rental hosts to register and adjust to different procedural necessities. This non-public lodging legislation went into impact pre-pandemic, and had a major influence on the variety of obtainable bookings on the time.
Between these onerous restrictions and the border closure, there are undoubtedly fewer Airbnb choices in Kyoto. Equally as noteworthy is that there seems to have been consolidation, with new homeowners shopping for up properties and the identical administration corporations–with bodily workplaces for check-in–working an enormous chunk of the rental market.
This isn’t essentially good or dangerous, simply totally different. We want utilizing Airbnb whereas touring Japan, and it stays (by far) the most cost effective possibility for reserving extra spacious lodging and in addition permits you to reside like a neighborhood, whether or not meaning doing a little laundry midway by way of your journey or getting meals to arrange you personal meals. We have been in a position to lease from impartial hosts, and had zero points in anyway. (Already, we’re seeing costs improve for 2023 dates, which is unsurprising given the pent-up demand amongst worldwide guests.)
New Luxurious Motels – Within the final 5 years, Kyoto has seen a proliferation within the variety of flagship luxurious and boutique accommodations, lots of that are operated by Western chained-brands. Of those, the spotlight is the Park Hyatt Kyoto, which is positioned within the coronary heart of the Higashiyama District, inside strolling distance of Kiyomizudera and the long-lasting Yasaka Pagoda. We’ve already stayed right here–see our Park Hyatt Kyoto Assessment, Pictures & Video for extra on this highly-recommended possibility.
That is removed from the one new possibility. Over in Northwestern Kyoto, you’ll discover the Aman Kyoto and Roku Kyoto close by each other in the foothills of Mount Daimonji in a phenomenal forested space. These are bona-fide vacation spot resorts, with sprawling campuses which might be far faraway from the hustle and bustle of Kyoto. In our view, that’s exactly the issue with many luxurious accommodations in Kyoto–they aren’t really in Kyoto. (Each of those are north of the Golden Pavilion, which itself is fairly removed from all the pieces else.)
Along with these luxurious retreats, there’s the stylish and fashionable Ace Resort in Kyoto’s centrally positioned Karasuma Oike district. Not too removed from that’s Resort the Mitsui Kyoto, adjoining to Nijo Fortress on the positioning of the Mitsui Household’s residence, a historic property the household maintained for over 250 years. Hoshino Resorts has 4 new accommodations in Kyoto, together with conveniently-located OMO ideas in Toji, Sanjo, and Gion.
This simply scratches the floor of the brand new and newly-revitalized accommodations in Kyoto. Every day whereas strolling by way of Higashiyama, Gion, Downtown, and round Kyoto Station, we noticed one thing new. There’s a surplus of classy upstart choices, that supply budget-friendly lodging with native aptitude and artsy designs. Work additionally continues to revive extra of Kyoto’s iconic machiya, that are conventional wood townhouses that have been as soon as disappearing at an astonishing fee.
Whereas we’re conscious of Kyoto’s evolving resort scene, we frankly don’t care an excessive amount of and would encourage guests undertake the same method. In our view, an excessive amount of of the mainstream journey protection of Kyoto focuses on its newer, extra luxurious lodging. Kyoto is brimming with issues to do, and prioritizing a resort is just like the tail wagging the canine. No resort grounds, tranquil location, facilities, or high-caliber of service can justify staying in some far-flung space outdoors Arashiyama. Select lodging in Kyoto primarily based totally on location.
Returning Festivals & Occasions – With solely a handful of exceptions, all of Kyoto’s nighttime illuminations for final yr’s fall colours season had returned. It’s protected to say the identical will probably be true for sakura season. If autumn was any indication, anticipate bigger crowds. These occasions are explicit fashionable with home vacationers, and appeared busier than ever. (And we had attended these occasions for a number of consecutive years pre-closure.)
Extra noteworthy is that festivals will make their long-awaited comeback in 2023. Kyoto’s famed Gion Matsuri is about to return in full power in July 2023 following a multi-year hiatus. In August, Kyoto will celebrates Gozan Okuribi, a bonfire celebration seen throughout town that marks the shut of Obon. Talking of conflagrations, Kurama Fireplace Pageant will probably be again once more in October 2023. Suffice to say, the calendar of occasions ought to carefully resemble 2019.
Museums – Situated close to Heian Shrine and Okazaki Park, the Kyoto Metropolis Kyocera Museum of Artwork has reopened after a 3 yr building closure. The redesigned most important constructing is joined by new wings for up to date artwork and occasions.
Over in Arashiyama, the Fukuda Artwork Museum can also be now open. This clear and fashionable constructing overlooks Katsura River and the historic Togetsu Bridge. Each museums provide historic and up to date home windows into Japan, nevertheless it’s extremely tough to suggest both to a customer with 4 or fewer days in Kyoto. When you’re going to do museums, the highest-priority choices must be Kyoto Railway Museum and Kyoto Nationwide Museum.
Tremendous Nintendo World – We’ll finish with one which’s not really in Kyoto, however has turn out to be one of many high attracts in all the Kansai area. That’s Tremendous Nintendo World at Common Studios Japan in Osaka. Though the identify suggests an all-encompassing world of Nintendo franchises, it’s actually simply Mario & Co. for now. (Okay, there are a couple of hidden Pikmin.)
This can be a actually cool addition, however now we have to warn you: Common Studios Japan is likely one of the busiest theme parks on the earth. Even on a standard weekday, many sights have triple-digit wait occasions. Arrive early in case you’re planning on visiting–not less than 90 minutes earlier than official park opening. See our Final Information to Common Studios Japan (2023) for extra recommendation to beat the crowds.
In the end, that’s a wrap on what’s new in Kyoto, Japan as of 2023. When you’ve visited up to now, essentially the most noticeable change will unquestionably be the masking and different health-safety measures, adopted by shifting crowd patterns (decrease within the overseas tour group hotspots, greater in spots beloved by the Japanese) and elevated growth.
When you get previous that, essentially the most noticeable factor, we predict, is how a lot has not modified in Kyoto. Clearly, it’s a historic metropolis recognized for temples and shrines which might be lots of of years previous, so that is partly to be anticipated. However even most of the little issues in Nishiki Market, Kyoto Station’s large malls, Gion, and different purchasing districts–areas we’d anticipate to see variations, are largely unchanged. Suffice to say, it was nice to be again at our home-away-from-home, and hopefully this replace supplied you with worthwhile data to your go to to Kyoto in 2023 or past.
When you’re planning a visit to Japan that features Kyoto, we suggest that you simply begin by consulting our Final Information to Kyoto, Japan to plan all facets of our trip. You also needs to take a look at our different posts about Japan for concepts on different locations to go to!
Your Ideas
Any ideas about what’s new in Kyoto as of 2023? When you’ve returned since Japan reopened, have you ever seen any adjustments or variations as in comparison with pre-closure? Involved in regards to the rise in crowds? Any matters you’d wish to see us sort out in future posts about Japan? Any questions on what we’ve lined right here? Does visiting this spot in Kyoto curiosity you? Listening to about your experiences—even whenever you disagree with us—is each fascinating and useful to different readers, so please share your ideas beneath within the feedback!
