Visiting Milano Marittima & Cervia, Italy (Beaches, Seafood & Salt)

My time in Cervia was supported by Go to Cervia and Ravenna Tourism

Alongside the sun-drenched sands of the Emilia Romagna Riviera, you’ll discover Cervia, an Italian metropolis of two tales. One aspect serves up Pope-linked sea salt tales of historical origins, whereas the opposite is grounded in gardens and seaside getaways. Mixed, they provide a pretty mix of tradition and coast, both as a aspect journey from Ravenna or Bologna or as a standalone seashore getaway, with all of the gelato, seafood, solar and sand a Mediterranean vacation wants.

In Cervia, a historic city that has been formed by the encircling salt pans (and was even picked up, moved, after which rebuilt in its present location), you’ll discover a conventional core the place typical seafood eating places and fisherman’s golf equipment dish up the celebrated native mussels, freshly grilled fish, squid risotto and fritto misto (blended fried fish). There’s additionally a museum devoted to the famend native candy salt. So prized, the entire salt pans right here had been as soon as owned by the Pope – and even till this present day, the city hand delivers a few of their most interesting ‘white gold’ to the Vatican yearly.

In the meantime, moments alongside the coast, Milano Marittima unfurls. Despite the fact that this leafy vacation spot is over three hours from the nation’s trend capital, its identify honours the very fact this has lengthy been a favorite seaside getaway for residents of Milan. These days, the backyard metropolis is especially a spring till autumn seashore resort city, with grand deserted and renovated Artwork Nouveau villas (as soon as the vacation properties of Lombardy’s wealth), flower and fountain adorned boulevards, and an alluring swathe of sandy seashores which aren’t simply welcoming guests to their shores nowadays, however even nesting turtles.

I’ve been to Emilia-Romagna extra instances than I can depend, however this underrated nook of the area had one way or the other eluded me. At first look, I assumed this was simply one other seashore vacation spot – however whenever you look just a little nearer, as with in all places in Italy, the storied previous turns into rather more evident.

Right here’s methods to benefit from your go to to Milano Marittima and Cervia, whether or not you’re looking for a seashore getaway, a aspect journey from Ravenna, or solely have in the future to be taught all about this nook of salt-heavy coast – with time spared for some sunbathing, after all.

Issues to do in Cervia and Milano Marittima in in the future 

After all, most individuals who come to Cervia are spending their holidays having fun with the Emilia-Romagna Riviera. It’s a vacation vacation spot designed to remain and play – whether or not that’s on the seashore or within the bars. However when you’re not right here for a seaside escape and as an alternative are simply touring Emilia-Romagna, that is my advised itinerary for in the future in Cervia and Milano Marittima, thow European hidden gems.

Morning: Take pleasure in Milano Marittima’s seashore 

If there may be one factor Milano Marittima is understood for its seashores, so what higher approach to begin the day than with a dip within the Adriatic Sea – particularly when you’re visiting in summer time when the mid-day solar can be intense.

Whereas there are many seashores alongside this stretch of coast, I’d personally recommend heading to the sands round Cala Zingaro, simply north of Milano Marittima, as right here you’ll not simply discover the parasol and sunlounger seashores that Italians appear to like, but additionally free, empty ‘wild’ sands the place you may simply lay out your towel. 

There’s a fantastic seashore bar subsequent door for breakfast, brunch or espresso, and you can even spot a relic of Italy’s newer historical past right here, as behind the dunes, the stays of the Colonia Varese. This huge advanced was constructed throughout Mussolini’s dictatorship as a form of summer time children’ academic camp. Fortunately, nature is reclaiming its area, and pine bushes now shroud among the constructing whereas turtles use this stretch of coast as a feeding floor and in 2023, the primary one has even nested right here. 

Late Morning: Discover Milano Marittima, the backyard metropolis

After a dip and breakfast, take the brief stroll into Milano Marittima correct. It’s a somewhat upscale and stylish resort, and remnants of the posh households from Lombardy who used to vacation right here may be noticed within the grand Artwork Nouveau villas which sit on the boulevards. Whereas many are actually deserted and sadly in disrepair, just a few have been restored, such because the constructing housing the L’Ottocento gelateria.

One other that stands out is Villa Palanti (nonetheless a residential constructing) which was designed by the Italian artist Giuseppe Palanti, one of many many arrivals from Milan. Whereas it’s laborious to think about now, malaria put a damper in town’s authentic desires for tourism – it was primarily poor salt works occupying the area then – and it wasn’t till the prepare arrived in 1875, and Palanti later in 1912, that the ‘Backyard Metropolis’ concept was born and the city was completely redesigned.

These days, the grand streets, attractive statues, garden-heavy roundabouts, and vibrant flower arrangements make this probably the most fascinating seashore locations within the nation. Return a decade or two, and luxurious nightclubs and sports activities vehicles had been much more commonplace.

Lunch: Conventional seafood dishes at Circolo dei Pescatori

After just a little stroll round Milano Marittima, I’d recommend heading to Cervia for lunch. It’s solely round 10 minutes by bus, or you may stroll alongside the seashore path or sands. The a lot older large brother to Milano Marittima, Cervia’s traditions, particularly these regarding salt and fishing, are rather more apparent, but it stays very a lot a hidden gem in Italy for worldwide vistors.

One of the crucial typical locations to take pleasure in lunch is on the Circolo dei Pescatori, which sits alongside Cervia’s canals and subsequent to the previous fish market. Inside, you’ll be handled to a historical past lesson in addition to an Emilia-Romagna feast, as this was (and nonetheless is) a standard fisherman’s membership, and adorning the partitions are murals of life at sea in addition to the assorted household flags of previous fishing households who dwell right here. In case you’re fortunate, one or two of those boats, with their spectacular emblem-decorated brown flags, can be moored outdoors.

There are many scrumptious fish choices on the menu, from blended fried fish and grilled plates to native specialities similar to Cervia’s acclaimed harvested and hand-checked mussels – among the finest I’ve ever tasted. I’d additionally recommend the squid risotto when you’re nonetheless hungry, as that was equally scrumptious.

After Lunch: Climb the historic Torre San Michele and discover the Quadrangolo neighbourhood

Observe the canal barely inland, and also you’ll arrive on the previous salt warehouse. It was right here that the Cervia’s ‘white gold’ from the salt pans would arrive, and the previous tower used to have a bridge connecting it to the warehouse.

Whereas many of those previous storage areas have now been repurposed as eating places and bars, the Torre San Michele is now the tourism workplace, and you may climb the tower – Cervia’s oldest landmark – for views throughout the city and canals out to the Adriatic. 

Afterwards, take a flip left to move contained in the previous Quadrangolo neighbourhood, which was the historic core of Cervia. Sadly, the previous entrance gates had been misplaced in World Conflict Two, however simply contained in the partitions, you may see the small slim homes which had been as soon as for the salt staff. In case you obtain the immagina Cervia app, it is going to take you on a brief strolling tour of the town centre, together with the primary sq. of Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi.

Afternoon: Hit the seashore

With the most well liked hours of the day behind you, it’s solely 10 minutes to stroll again to Cervia’s seashores, the place you’ll discover (what seems like) tons of of bars and umbrella concessions lining the sands. Sip a beer, take pleasure in a Spritz, chill out beneath a fluttering blue umbrella or take one other dip; the afternoons are very a lot for stress-free alongside this stretch of coast – even the salt museum doesn’t open till nightfall.

Late Afternoon: See sundown and flamingos on the Cervia Salt Pans

The story of salt and Cervia are intertwined, and the town’s salt pans are effectively value a go to to be taught extra – plus, you would possibly get to identify pink flamingos, among the best issues to do in Italy’s Po Delta?

Round a 20-minute stroll from the historic centre is the Salt Pans of Cervia Customer Centre (Centro Visite Salina di Cervia) which is the gateway to those huge marshlands. You may discover independently or with a information – finest if you wish to see the salt harvesting and piles – and I recommend coming late within the afternoon because the sunsets are chic right here, particularly with the flamingos on the horizon.

Because the late twentieth century, this a part of the Po Delta has grow to be an necessary habitat for migratory birds, including to the lengthy and historic salt harvesting story, which dates again to the third century BCE. Informative boards alongside the trail fill in among the salt harvesting historical past and birdlife round you, and any remaining questions may be answered on the MUSA Salt Museum.

Night: Go to the MUSA Salt Museum 

Open from 8:30 PM till midnight, the MUSA Salt Museum may be visited earlier than dinner or after. Housed contained in the previous salt warehouse, the area is operated primarily by volunteers who used to work on the salt pans themselves, which means there’s a wealth of data when you’ve got any questions.

Inside, you’ll see the story of the town: the way it has been moved and rebuilt (beneath the watchful eye of the Pope), why Cervia’s salt is barely candy and referred to as ‘white gold’, and even one of many massive flat-bottomed burchiella boat that’s nonetheless used to move the salt as a part of the annual salt pageant. Even the partitions are stained white because the salt was saved freely with out luggage.

For probably the most half, data is translated into English, and a few respectable movies alongside artefacts and reconstructions fill within the image. For me, probably the most attention-grabbing half was studying about how, in 1630, following many inhabitants dying of malaria resulting from being surrounded by salt pans, the Pope allowed the residents to maneuver the city. Nevertheless, there have been two guidelines: the Pope would oversee the brand new design, and all of the previous stones had been to be moved one after the other and rebuilt within the new, present location.

Every little thing about this city was salt, together with the identify, which probably comes from the phrase acervi, the time period for giant piles of drying salt.

Dinner: Officine del Sale

Given the late-night nature of the museum tour, there’s no must go far for dinner. Moments away is the Officine del Sale restaurant, housed in one other ex-salt constructing, which provides a menu which is fortunately rather more about seafood than salt.

Inside, historic parts of the constructing, such because the uncovered salt-stained brickwork, mix in with the colorful glass panels highlighting the open-plan kitchen. Alternatively, the big backyard on the again is nice on a pleasing night. I feasted on fish soups and an enormous tray of grilled seafood and shellfish, though the refined menu additionally had some meat and vegetarian choices.

Extra issues to do in Cervia, Italy and Milano Marittima

Cervia and Milano Marittima aren’t simply seashores and salt pans, although, and when you’ve got just a little extra time, or are looking for some different actions, listed here are some extra issues to do in Cervia throughout your go to.

Loosen up in Cervia’s spas

Cervia’s prized salt isn’t merely a seasoning, it’s additionally celebrated in spa therapies. Pair this with one among Cervia’s thermal baths, and you’ve got a correct pamper session.

Stroll Milano Marittima’s boulevards, gardens and statues 

Past the one boulevard stroll I’ve highlighted above, there are loads extra gardens, previous Artwork Nouveau mansions, and monuments to identify on a stroll round Milano Marittima.

Go to Milano Marittima’s Butterfly Home

The Casa delle Farfalle covers some 500 sq. metres, and the factitious rainforest-style design inside ensures an optimum setting for butterflies to breed. Personally, I’m by no means a fantastic fan of conditions the place any animals are saved in captivity, however in case you are within the pinewoods, the probabilities are you’ll encounter the (paid-to-visit) constructing.

Play a spherical of Golf 

In case you’re trying to play a spherical of golf, then the course on the Adriatic Golf Membership simply again from the boulevards of Milano Marittima’s centre is the place to be.

Study extra about Cervia’s candy salt

Alongside the MUSA Salt Museum and flamingo recognizing excursions talked about on the in the future in Cervia itinerary above, there are a few different alternatives to be taught extra about Cervias’s candy salt. The museum additionally organises ‘experiences’ throughout summer time to see what it’s wish to work the salt pans for the day, whereas visits to the piled-high Camillione salt pans are attainable by a guided tour in the course of the summer time afternoons on Thursdays and Sundays.

The Style of Salt Pageant

Throughout September, Cervia revives lots of its historical traditions in the course of the ‘Sapore di sale’ salt festivals. Over just a few days (normally firstly of the month), numerous salt-focused actions happen, similar to reenacting the previous salt supply to the Pope, boat traditions, and salt harvesting experiences.

Devour scrumptious typical dishes

With extra time in Cervia and the Romagna area basically, you’ll be capable of strive much more of the scrumptious regional dishes – there’s a motive why Emilia-Romagna is usually referred to as Italy’s foodie capital. Attempt piadina (flatbreads) filled with native cheese at one of many red-stripped kiosks, pattern much more of the seafood bounty on supply, and devour regional pasta dishes such because the ring-like cappelletti. Albana and Sangiovese are two of probably the most native grapes to pair all of it with.

Benefit from the summer time night markets

Throughout summer time, a collection of small native markets are hosted most evenings alongside the canal and likewise within the automotive park not removed from the tower (that is additionally the situation of the weekly market on Thursdays). Lit by little lights and promoting native produce, meals and items, it’s a pleasant approach to begin a heat summer time’s night.

Have a peaceable stroll by way of the Pinewoods

In between Cervia and Milano Marittima, the setting is extra verdant than beachy. Dense pinewood forests string their means by way of the Po Delta park, permitting ample alternatives for shady hikes and even kayaking adventures.

Nice locations to remain in and round Cervia and Milano Marittima

Alongside the coast between Cervia and Milano Marittima, you’ll discover loads of choices. Simply remember it is a very fashionable seashore vacation spot for Italians in August, which means costs can soar. A handful of campsites and resort-village-like choices may also help lower prices too.

Price range-ish: Resort Moderno B&B

Whilst you gained’t actually discover a low-cost price range possibility in Milano Marittima or Cervia on the top of summer time, this spot is nice worth for what you get. With some Seaview fashionable rooms at honest costs, it’s a superb possibility when you can snag a deal outdoors of August. Examine costs.

Mid-range: Resort Sensible Cervia

A brief stroll from Cervia’s seashores and centre, this easy-going resort is normally an reasonably priced possibility (outdoors of peak August seashore season) for clear balcony rooms with all the things in your doorstep. Examine costs.

Luxurious: MarePineta Resort, Milano Marittima

The primary resort ever inbuilt Milano Marittima, MarePineta, is now a renovated and opulent lodging alternative, only a brief stroll from the ocean. With a beautiful pool, tennis courts, courtyard eating places and plush rooms, this is a wonderful alternative for a refined Romagna seashore vacation. Examine costs.

Greatest time to go to Cervia, Italy and different FAQS

The perfect time to go to Cervia and Milano Marittima is between spring and autumn – however be warned, summer time may be busy with holidaying locals and better temperatures. Cervia, with its salt historical past and lived-in historic centre, could make for a superb Adriatic day journey year-round, whereas Milano Marittima is designed to be extra of a resort vacation spot, and plenty of eating places and inns shut between November and April.

There are just a few seasonal occasions to maintain in your radar, such because the Style of Salt Pageant in September, the Modulo Fest (an artwork and experimental music pageant) in mid-June, and the Cervia Backyard Metropolis occasion (when the gardens and flower arrangements are at their brightest) happens between Might and September. One other necessary occasion in Cervia’s calendar is San Lorenzo, held in mid-August when fireworks and late-night events rejoice summer time.

The place to journey after Cervia, Italy 

After you’ve lapped up the seashore, studied the salt, and savoured all of the seafood, you is perhaps questioning the place to go to subsequent in Emilia-Romagna? Listed below are some close by options.

Marvel on the mosaics of Ravenna

Ravenna is undoubtedly probably the most underrated cities in Europe. As soon as the capital of the Western Roman Empire, the town has eight Unesco-listed monuments. I’d recommend spending a minimum of two days in Ravenna to provide you sufficient time to see all of the mosaics and points of interest of this improbable historic metropolis.

Take pleasure in seashore days on the Emilia Romagna coast 

The Emilia Romagna Riviera is a superb place to flee the warmth on summer time days, and it extends effectively past Cervia and Milano Marittima. Why not spend every week hopping alongside the coast exploring the Po Delta, Comacchio and another storied cities?

Spot flamingos and canals in Commachio

The previous fishing group of Comacchio is centred round a gorgeous historic village. Canal heavy, it’s also known as Little Venice. Nevertheless, you’re much more prone to see flamingos and eels right here than crowds.

Discover extra of Emilia Romagna (and past) 

From Cervia, you’re effectively positioned to find extra canals in Venice, spend two days in Bologna consuming probably the most scrumptious dishes, head to the hidden away mediaeval city of Brigishalla or discover the entire different superb locations to go to in Emilia Romagna. You could possibly even take a day journey to San Marino, a landlocked micro-start that’s simply inland. 

Learn Extra:
Greatest locations to go to in Emilia Romagna